Everyone says you shouldn’t have expectations when joining the Peace Corps. You may be someplace cold or hot, rainy or dry, welcoming of foreigners or not so welcoming. You may be swamped with projects or have trouble finding things to do. Your PC support staff may give you a lot of resources and guidance, or you may feel like you’ve been dropped in the middle of nowhere to fend for yourself for the next two years. Until you get your site placement, you don’t even know what language you’ll need to learn. It seems like anything could happen, but if you happen to be in the PC-Ethiopia groups arriving next month or this fall, there are a few things you can be damn well sure of.
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Surviving here takes a lot of time. Maybe you’re dreaming of days full of work with kids and getting projects done. Keep in mind that by the time you get yourself ready in the morning, fix some breakfast on your kerosene or charcoal stove, wash your dishes, walk to town to pick up food for lunch and/or dinner (since most of the food you’ll buy will be perishable, you probably need to shop almost everyday), and walk back again, you’re morning is already half over. If you fix your own lunch (maybe eating out isn’t an option or requires a long trek), then another big chunk of time is prepping lunch (since everything gets made from scratch), eating it, and cleaning up afterwords. If you’re lucky enough to be in a place with internet, you may spend another half hour trying to check your email for the day. If you need to do some laundry, the afternoon is a good time to do it. The heat of the afternoon sun will dry your clothes pretty quickly, and you don’t want to wait until the evening because you never know when you’ll have power. A big load of laundry might take a couple hours since you’re doing it all by hand one item at a time. Then you’re finally ready to get some work done. Though at the heat of the day, you’ll be tempted to stay indoors protected from the scorching sun (or, during the rainy season, protected from the harsh rains and debilitating mud), so you may find this a good time to read, journal, or watch the hundreds of gigabytes of movies and television you’ve mostly likely acquired for just such occasions. When things cool down enough (or the rains let up) around 4 or 5, you might be able to catch some people as they leave their offices, have some tea or coffee with friends and co-workers, and then start thinking about dinner.
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We all like to think of ourselves as culturally open-minded. I used to think it wasn’t my place to judge another culture as good or bad, since such judgments would inevitably come from biases in my own culture. I don’t think that way anymore. I’d like to educate all of Ethiopia on the beauty of lines over mobs of people fighting for the clerks attention. I’d like to explain to people that if you want to have a conversation with someone, it’s on you to say something, and if you don’t like it when people say “you, talk”, chances are people don’t like it when you say it to them. I tell people if they want to talk to me, don’t shout at me from 100 yards away, and don’t tell me to wait for you if it’s going to take you five minutes to get to me, especially if I don’t know you. And I don’t care what you’re mother told you, open windows on a bus does not cause tuberculosis. If you’re a westerner, be prepared to release your attachment to privacy and personal space; realize that people feel completely entitled to use you as a pillow, read your text messages, give you their babies to hold, and interrupt your conversations so they can ask their own barrage of questions. It’s a different culture here, and getting angry about it won’t help anything. Teaching others about America is one of the three Peace Corps goals, and there’s no better way to teach than by example. Maybe start by throwing your trash away rather than on the ground.
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You will almost certainly not have a refrigerator, or a washing machine, or an oven, or satellite TV, or FM radio, or high-speed internet (anything over 10 kbps), or snickers bars, or supermarkets. You will 100% definitely not have a car. Getting around will be tough, staying where you are won’t be much easier. Ethiopia is ranked as the 14th poorest country in the world, and the average American makes 44 times what the average Ethiopian makes. If this sounds like a tough place to live, trust your instincts. Love it or hate it, the slow pace and simplicity of life here will be your life, too. The more remote your site, the harder it’ll be to get to a hospital, clinic, or pharmacy should you need it. The Peace Corps medical staff will take good care of you once you’re in Addis, but that’ll be a long trip for most of you.
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When you go out in the States, you’re not likely to attract much attention to yourself, unless you’re a rock star. Here, being outside or in any public setting means being in the spotlight. It feels great at times and it’ll wear you down at times. There will be people pleased to see a foreigner living amongst them, and they’ll want to shake your hand and welcome you. There will also be people that feel they are entitled to your money or your things. Some children will run flat out 100 meters just to greet you politely and then run back, and others that will yet at you from afar. Most will be harmless, maybe just confusing, greeting you with “What is this. My name is. I am fine thank you”. You will explain many times that your name is not “you you china money”. And despite all this attention, I expect most of you will experience a new level of isolation. Many of you will be the only foreigners in your town. You may go days or weeks or (in my case when I first got here) months without seeing another foreigner. Even if you have a site-mate, you may rarely socialize with people you can express yourself to. You’ll try to integrate, but you’ll always be an outsider. You’ll know what it feels like to be a rock star.
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Few Ethiopians can communicate effectively in English, especially in rural areas. Learning language(s) is a big part of being a Peace Corps volunteer in a non-English-speaking country. I started this blog as a place to reflect on my own process of learning. You might think I’d have a bit to say on language learning, and you’d be right. So here’s my advice on language:
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Learn Fidel (Ge’ez). Many PCVs have gotten by without it here, but the benefit you get from what you put in makes this a no-brainer for me. Learn it as soon as possible, before you come to Ethiopia even. There are 252 characters you’ll need to know, though you may occasionally see some of the older and stranger forms not typically included in the typical Fidel chart. That might seem like a lot to learn, but there are only 33 consonant types, each with 7 or 8 vowels that will follow it, and most follow the same general pattern. The consonant group for t is ተ, ቱ, ቲ, ታ, ቴ, ት, ቶ, and ቷ, for example. If you learn 3 groups a day (completely manageable), you’ll have Fidel down in just 11 days. And you won’t regret it. Most bus signs, even in non-Amarhic areas, are written in Fidel, so it’s great for getting around. Many store signs and road signs are only in Fidel. Even if you don’t speak Amharic, you’ll be amazed at how many words you can sound out that you’ll understand (as in English loan words and place names). Restaurants that have menus often have them only in Fidel. Tigrinya, Amharic, and many Southern Nations languages use Fidel as their only script. It’s useful, and people will appreciate not having to read everything to you, so learn it.
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Learn basic Amharic. You may be in a town or area where Amharic is not the dominant language, and you’ll want to focus your time on studying whatever is the dominant language. But no matter where you live in Ethiopia, you’ll need to go to Addis and other big cities from time to time where people only speak Amharic. So you’d do well to remember at least the basics: greetings, simple questions, shopping, and numbers. After living here I’m convinced that numbers are the most important thing to learn for any language that you use. You’ll want to be able to understand prices people give you and tell people how many rooms you want for how many nights.
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Learn the basics of your area’s dominant language. If you’re not living in Amhara, you’re likely going to want to know the basics of a non-Amharic language spoken around you. If you’re in Oromia, you should pick up at least a little Oromiffa. If you’re in Tigray, Tigrinya might be the only language you can use. If you’re in Southern Nations (SNNPR), they’ll be at least one of 70 some odd languages spoken near you. These local languages will come in handy at farmers’ markets and when going out to more rural areas where you’re work may take you. How much you want to learn will depend on your particular situation, but the basics (greetings, simple questions, and numbers) will likely come in handy.
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Get a tutor, preferably one that speaks enough English to translate simple sentences for you. But even a tutor without English can help you figure out a lot that would otherwise be hard to learn. Your tutor should at least be literate in the language you’re learning. I would sometimes hand my tutor several sentences I had written and ask him to check the ones that were correct and correct the ones that needed it. Sessions like this help me see patterns, learning not just words but how each word can and cannot be used in a sentence. When I had written out a dialogue that was sufficiently correct by my tutor’s standards, I would record him reading it so that I could listen to it later and practice my pronunciation. There are a lot of ways to use a tutor, but perhaps the most useful is that regular meetings ensure that you keep studying, which brings me to my final point.
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Keep studying. I did a terrible job at this myself, but don’t be like me. We all reach what we call “the plateau”, which is usually where we have enough language skills to get by, so the motivation to learn more is lost. There are a limited number of greetings to learn, and a limited number of items you’ll buy, and you’ll most likely have the same conversation many, many times. But don’t get complacent. Follow the tortoise and not the hare so that you don’t get burned out. Just think, if you focus on 3 verbs, 3 adjectives, and 10 nouns a week, within a year you’ll be able to communicate pretty well without using English or a translator. If you want to be a little more ambitious, say a verb and 4 other words a day, you’ll probably be more fluent in an Ethiopian language than any current PCV. If you get too comfortable on that plateau, you’ll end up a year and a half in to your service wondering why you still feel like a 3 year old anytime you want to express a new thought.
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And finally, there are a few specific things that I wished someone had told me when I got here:
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60 watt light bulbs don’t seem to last long. The two I got each lasted about two weeks. 40 watt and 25 watt seem to do fine, but florescents are best and are sold in some government offices at a discounted price if you get them your meter number.
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If you go to a shop and ask for a battery, you’ll likely be handed a flashlight. If you’re looking for the AA/AAA dry cell type of battery, the word you want is “denga” or “battery denga”, which literally means “stone”.
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When you buy beans, rice, lentils, and other dry goods, it’s best to sort them immediately or they may get eaten up by worm and weavels.
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Power surges happen, and surge protectors are hard to find, so put that on you’re to buy list when you’re in Addis, or bring one with you.
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If you want to print a PDF document at a printing shop (even the small towns have them), don’t count on them having a PDF reader. Most, in my experience, don’t. So download a portable reader like Foxit and carry it on your thumb drive.
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Most computers here are infested with viruses, so make sure you’re computer has a good and updated antivirus program before you get here (Avast! has a good free-ware version), and scan all flashdrives as soon as you put them in. Even you Mac and Linux people will need to be careful so you don’t give infected files to others.
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A great way to make your fellow PCVs happy is to bring with you movies, TV, music, audio books, ebooks, programs, and games to share. We’re never satiated.
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And packing. Everyone seems to stress out about this, but you can buy pretty much anything in Addis. My main piece of advice is don’t bring more than you can carry. Roller bags won’t do well, as there are few places here where they’ll actually roll. I brought one large Army duffel bag, a medium sized (50 L) backpack, and a messenger bag for my laptop. A few essentials I would recommend bringing: durable luggage, durable clothes and shoes, mp3 player, small laptop (13 in. or less)/netbook/tablet, ereader/tablet, harddrive (don’t forget to put fun stuff on it), camera, headlamp, utility knife, sowing kit, and travel towel. We have lots of paper books at the office and floating around the PCVs, so don’t waste valuable packing space on a lot of books.
And there you have it folks, the freshly squeezed juice from my mind grapes (yes I have been watching 30 Rock). I didn’t mean this to sound like a rant, though it certainly got ranty in there. Mostly, I want everyone to know, at least in part, what they’re in for. People told me to come here with no expectations, but, as I see it, expectations can be helpful. As different as everyone’s experience has been in Peace Corps Ethiopia, there have also been commonalities that you, too, can expect to share.